What is Concrete Overlay?

Written by Snow White and published on http://beautyharmonylife.com/.

It’s not necessary to break up and replace your existing concrete slab for a beautiful, decorative finish. An overlay can restore concrete to like-new condition or transform drab, gray concrete with a brilliant pattern and/or color to add value to your home for a fraction of the cost of new concrete.

A concrete overlay involves preparing your existing concrete surface before laying new concrete on top of the slab or floor. The concrete overlay can be stamped, dyed, and stained to achieve a beautiful final result. The prep work is important to avoid delamination and ensure the overlay will last for many years.

10 Things You Should Know About Concrete Overlays

When you have a concrete floor that needs repair or just needs a little makeover, it can be done in an interesting way and could actually make it a lot better than it was before. Concrete overlays is one method that will give your floors a different look. There are a few things that you need to know before applying any overlaying products. Below you will see 10 of the most important things to know about concrete overlays so you’re all ready to redecorate or fix that concrete.

1 – What are Concrete Overlays?

What you’re applying over your existing concrete is basically a thin color concrete cement-based products. They are used mainly for decorative purposes and repairing damages. The overlay that you apply can be as thin as you want as it all depends on your personal preference. Many years ago, there weren’t a lot of user friendly products that would allow you to easily resurface a worn out and ugly looking concrete. But all that has changed with today’s different products. They have different bag mixes that only need water for it to work. Depending on the manufacturer, most of the overlay products have their own mixture and proprietary blends. There are different blends of portland cements, different aggregates and polymer resins with polymer modified additives in every blend. The polymer is a key part of the overlay; it’s what makes all the blends and products stick together, making them strong to provide the powerful bond to the existing concrete.

2 – Can It Be Used on Walls?

Yes, it can be. These overlays help protect the wall surface without compromising its look. Vertical overlays differ from horizontal overlays due to reducing the weight of the material so that it can hang on the wall without sagging. Depending on the surface, additional products may be needed for adhesion, moisture intrusion and strength.

3 – Important Facts to Consider

Concrete overlays are only as good as the surface, it is being applied to. You need to keep in mind that if the concrete is cracked or surfacing up, then the overlay will also break and come up. You need to be sure that if the concrete is heavily damaged, your overlay won’t last long. There are different ways to strengthen and treat existing concrete. But because the ground moves depending on the weather conditions and moisture, you should be aware that there are never any solid guarantees the overlay will not delaminate or crack. It all depends on the product contents too at the end of the day; you need to get your money’s worth. Look for outlets that provide strong blends. The people at https://ift.tt/31trpBI pride themselves in utilizing the highest quality, the most advanced and environmentally responsible products. So, if the blends are strong and made out of high quality ingredients, then the overlay would look much better and last longer. Before you decide to replace the floor entirely, consider that resurfacing it instead gives new life into a surface and costs less than removing and replacing it with a new floor or wall.

4 – Hiring Professionals

It’s really important to hire a concrete professional who knows how to properly prepare the mixture for you, and if they have decorative finish experience then it would make it a lot easier and better. Also, you need to talk with the professionals about all the equipment and materials needed for the job. Getting a structural engineer to assess the foundation so he could determine its soundness and stability is important. They will explain which cracks are ignorable, which are easy to fix, and which will require hiring a contractor to make the repairs. Professionals can also point out that cracks wider than one eighth of an inch could mean there are problems with the foundation’s integrity, so there would be other things they would need to do before applying anything. You could do it all yourself of course, but having professionals who know what they’re doing could be worth the extra money. You never know what could happen, especially when dealing with materials such as these.

5 – Types of Overlays and Resurfacing

Here are some of the most commonly used types of concrete overlays:

• Microtopping: This type helps to fill in small damaged spots on the floor to give a blank canvas look. It’s got a feather edged or a one eighth inch depth of spread. The color option this type has been broadcast dry pigment-accent with stains-dyes. Can give out two finishing options, either smooth or textured.
• Stamped: It’s used both indoors and out to give a concrete slab a stamped texture with the finishing appearance of wood, tile, brick, slate or stone. It has a quarter or three quarter inch depth of spread. Its color options are broadcast pigments, colored liquid, powdered releases, stains, dyes, and tinted sealers.
• Spray-Down: This type allows you to push your creativity to the limit, offering different options for finishing like splatter coat or a knock-down look. It has a one eighth inch depth of spread with different color options like stains, dyes, and tints. You can also have pre-colored blends or add the colors during the mixing process.
• Self-Leveling: With a depth of spread of one or one fifth of an inch. This type is considered to be the most unpredictable of all overlays. They have a short working window so you got to be careful and fast to avoid any mistakes. Its color options are integral pigments mixing, stains, dyes, or tints. It gives out a saw cut finishing or you could have engraved designs made on it.

6 – Prep before applying

Concrete resurfacing and overlaying takes multiple steps, and there’s some prep work that’s needed before starting on any surface makeover or repair. You should first determine if the concrete is suitable for resurfacing and overlaying. If the surface isn’t heavily damaged, clean it, then repair and prime it. There’s pressure washing that uses high velocity to get dirt, dust and grime off. There’s also power washing which uses hot water to get rid of stains and other tough elements. You need to repair the concrete and remove all the unnecessary surfaced up bits before you apply anything, also doing certain steps to check for its stability and soundness then you use all the synthetic or rubberized fillers needed to repair it. There’s mud jacking that you should do. It’s basically pumping or pouring concrete under an existing slab that is cracked or sagging, this flattens and levels the slab. You should perform mud jacking after you finish power and pressure washing. This step can be skipped if the concrete is in good condition. After the surface is cleaned and repaired, the mixing truck must deliver and pour the additional concrete needed within 90 minutes or 300 rotations. After all these steps are done and the overlay blend is ready, then you can apply it to the surface.

7 – Tools Needed

You cannot do anything without the proper tools. Proper tools and equipment is crucial and can make the difference between struggling through the process or a seamless installation. There are some of the important tools that you would need before starting:

• Squeegee: Squeegees are considered the fastest way to apply micro-toppings and bond coats. Although some applicators use small handheld squeegees while working on their knees, but they are mostly used while standing upright. Like hand trowels, they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Plus, there’s metal and rubber kinds for squeegees so it depends on your preference.
• Magic Trowel: The magic trowel can technically be considered a squeegee, but it’s more of a “finesse” tool. While the squeegee is used for larger and faster applications like driveways, the magic trowel is used for producing a more refined floor. The rubber blade is much thinner and somewhat flexible when compared to a normal squeegee.
• Hand Trowels: Hand trowels come in many shapes and sizes. For example, some technicians prefer using a square-edged trowel while others choose to use a pool trowel, which has rounded edges. Typically, hand trowels range from 4 to 24 inches in length.
• Funny Trowels and Fresnos: These types of tools are attached to the end of a pole and are most commonly used for stamped overlays. Having the funny trowel or fresno on a handle allows you to stand upright while finishing the topping, unlike hand trowels that need you to work on your knees.
• Smoothing Paddles: Smoothing paddles are commonly used for applying self-leveling overlays. Most smoothing paddles come with either a 45-degree-angle edge or a rounded blade, choosing one depends on your personal preference. They serve dual purposes. Not only do they smooth and level the surface, they also greatly reduce the occurrence of air bubbles inside the mixture itself after it’s been applied.
• Mixing Paddles: This is a very important tool that’s used for mixing the blends and the type you choose is equally important also. Choosing the wrong one may cause the overlay material to be clumpy or make the colors not mix together properly. Some mixing buckets for self-leveling cements have an oval shape and it is important to use a mixing paddle that can follow the form and the shape of the bucket.
• Gauge Rakes and Spreaders: These tools are commonly used with materials that are a quarter of an inch thick or thicker, such as self-leveling cements, stamped overlays and repair mortars. Usually, they are fitted with adjustable ears or cam locks that you set to the certain topping thickness you desire.

8 – The Prices of the Overlays and Resurfacing

You should know that prices might vary depending on where you’re from. The per-square-foot cost is different and depends on the type of resurfacing you want, the condition of the existing surface, and the size of the project. It’s recommended that you plan your budget and see if you got more areas that needs work and several cracks to fill or need mud jacking to make the slab level. You also need to be aware that smaller projects may be a bit more expensive if you’re hiring a professional because some companies have a flat fee or minimum charge. The average cost to resurface in 2019 to 100 square feet of concrete is $400. Less expensive projects can run as little as $300 while more expensive ones are about $500. The price per square foot can range between $3 and $5. The resurfaced area could be a driveway, patio, pool deck, floor or slab foundation in the basement. Concrete with a decorative overlay typically ranges in price from $7 to $12 per square foot while stamped concrete costs $8 to $20. The per 100 square-foot cost of installing stamped concrete ranges from $800 to $2000. The price of a standard 38×16-foot driveway ranges from about $4,900 to $12,200. The total depends on the stamped design’s complexity as well as the square footage. The per 100 square-foot price of decorative overlays ranges from $700 to $1200. The cost to resurface a standard 38×16-foot driveway with a decorative overlay ranges from $4,300 to $7,300.

9 – The Cost of the Additional Steps Needed

The average price for pressure or power washing an exterior surface, which is the first step in the resurfacing process is $300. Pressure washing a driveway price could be between $80 and $200 while power washing is about $130 to $220. Repairing concrete usually costs from $300 to $3,500. Fixing cracks ranges from $250 to $800. If the cracks are wider than one eighth of an inch, hiring a structural engineer to help you in this situation would cost you about $500. To cover the cost of leveling or mud jacking concrete slabs, most people can up an average price of $900. The cost of concrete delivery is different, but ranges from $1,500 to $5,700, the price per-square foot of pouring new concrete is $13. The coloring, ornamenting and sealing of the concrete is different also depending on the type. The Clear type which has a water base cost about 0.15$ per-square foot, the Acrylic type which has a solvent base cost about 0.20$ per-square foot and the Elastomeric type which also has a water base cost 0.13$ per-square foot.

10 – The Pros and Cons of Concrete Overlays

If you want to check if all of this is worth your time and money, outweigh the pros and cons first:

Pros:

• Easy maintenance
• Long-lasting
• Not susceptible to moisture damage
• Eco-friendly
• Economical
• Many styles

Cons:

• Difficult to correct mistakes
• Amplifies sound
• Cold to the touch due to heat conductivity
• Environmentally unfriendly if not using existing slab

Spruce up your floors and walls

In conclusion, even if it has some cons, concrete overlays are really worth it because it will liven up your floors and walls. Making them even better than they ever were. Do your research, hire a professional to help, decide on materials and colors to use, as well as prepare your tools. Once you’re educated enough on the process of applying concrete overlays, you’ll be able to give your floors the makeover it needs.

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Is Wire Mesh Necessary In Concrete Driveway?

Written by Port Aggregates and published on https://www.portaggregates.com/.

Concrete by itself provides a sleek look and incredible durability for a variety of residential and commercial projects, but what if there was a simple way to increase its toughness, get a specific look and feel, and even minimize cracking? There is, thanks to concrete fibers.

When to use Fiber Mesh or Wire Mesh

When it comes to reinforcing your concrete, there are two mesh options: fiber mesh and wire mesh. Each of these types are sufficient in minimizing structural damage and cracking, but there are distinct differences between the two. Continue reading as we discuss when to use fiber mesh and when to use wire mesh.

Wire Mesh

Wire mesh makes concrete more durable and increases its strength. The area in which the concrete will be laid down should be covered in mesh before pouring commences. As the concrete is poured, the wire mesh should be lifted up so that it’s positioned in the middle of the concrete in order to provide steel reinforcement. This particular type of reinforcement resembles a two-dimensional grid, which plays an important role in its support capabilities.

Fiber Mesh

Fiber mesh is made up of fibrous materials like synthetic fibers, glass fibers, natural fibers, and steel fibers. It is typically used in sidewalks, patios, and driveways. Rather than being laid down prior to the concrete pour, this type of mesh is distributed evenly throughout the wet concrete.

The purpose of fiber mesh is to reduce water loss from the concrete as well as enhance its structural integrity. This type of mesh is also used to create a higher impact resistance in the concrete, prevent thawing, and increase its strength. Unlike wire mesh, this particular type of reinforcement provides more than just a single layer of support–it reinforces concrete throughout its entire surface.

When selecting which type of mesh to use, you will need to consider both the time and price each will cost you. Because constructing a driveway, sidewalk, or patio can be quite difficult for residents to maneuver around, you’ll want to make sure that the project is completed as soon as possible. Using wire mesh is typically a longer process than fiber mesh, because it requires time to overlap and must be laid twice. Keep in mind that the longer the project takes, the more it will cost you.

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What You Should Know About Concrete Repair?

Written by Angie List and published on https://www.angieslist.com/.

Before you can repair anything you have to know what caused the problem in the first place and you have to understand how it is supposed to work. Only then can you make an intelligent decision on how to do the repair.

With any concrete repair, take that lesson to heart and you’re off to a great start. First figure out what caused the damage, do the necessary preparation of removing any unsound concrete and contamination, then install a repair designed to solve the problem. The worst thing you can do is make a repair that doesn’t last. Someone once told me that over 50% of concrete repairs fail again within two years. That is not a track record that inspires confidence.

What You Need to Know about Concrete Repair

Before hiring a contractor to replace concrete in and around your home, one highly rated provider explains how to diagnose when replacement is actually needed.

On this ever shifting piece of the earth’s crust we all live on, there are two unequivocal facts about our concrete: it is gray and it cracks. The information below will specifically address crack repair on surfaces where an overlay will be installed. Overlays considered include, but are not limited to: polymer modified concrete overlays, tile, stone, epoxy and other hard surface products that will be bonded to the repaired surface.

When most of us see a crack in our concrete, we immediately assume that the concrete is damaged beyond repair or that we have some type of structural problem that can only be fixed by removal and replacement. It is this uninformed thought process of the consumer that keeps many concrete removal and replacement companies in business.

How to Prevent Concrete Cracks

Over time, your concrete is susceptible to cracking. Here’s what you can do to prevent it and protect the look of your sidewalk or driveway.

What causes concrete cracks

Cracks in concrete can be the result of a multitude of conditions related directly or indirectly to the soil substrate or existing site conditions, mix design, over hydration of the surface during placement, improper steel placement or reinforcement, insufficient grade preparation and inadequate joint design. Other more complicated and complex causes for cracking in concrete are possible, and in most cases can be diagnosed by a knowledgeable concrete professional.

Before we get into the meat of the discussion, let us first discuss the fact that the homogenous prescription to repair a crack should not overshadow the underlying cause of the crack. Therefore, the cause should be considered and when possible, addressed prior to prescribing the appropriate repair method.

Different types of concrete cracking

There are several different types of cracks in concrete. This is important because each type of crack requires a different repair. Below are listed the types of cracks and the appropriate repair for each.

The first type of crack is a “check crack” or shrinkage crack. Shrinkage cracks are easily identified and recognizable as they usually appear to be discontinuous and are typically in the surface of the concrete only. Most shrinkage cracks are approximately one sixteenth of an inch wide and are not typically considered to be a defect in the concrete, as all concrete shrinks a bit during the initial hydration period.

Repairing of this type of crack prior to the installation of an overlay is typically not required, although I do recommend an anti-fracture membrane be installed as a safety precaution to protect the overlay from potential reflective transfer through the overlay.

The second type of crack in concrete is called a “structural crack.” Structural cracks are also known as settlement cracks, shift cracks and load cracks depending on the area of the country. The cause of settlement cracks can vary but are typically related to pour grade preparation or shifting soil.

Structural cracks are typically continuous and travel from one side of the concrete to the other. It is very important to note that though the result is not guaranteed, this type of crack typically requires injection of a structural epoxy.

The layperson is often mislead into believing that this process is intended to bond the concrete back together. Though it would seem that the injection of the epoxy bonds the concrete back together, this is not the primary initiative. The epoxy (when hardened) acts as a liquid shim which binds or prevents the inward movement of the crack, effectively preventing the crack to close due to any additional movement. After the crack has been injected, an anti-fracture membrane should be installed over the repair area to prevent reflective energy transfer.

The third type of crack, which is the least responsive to the aforementioned repair method, is the “off-set structural crack.” An off-set structural crack is when the crack exhibits a raised area on either side of the crack itself.

Also referred to as a twisted crack, the off-set crack does not move only in and out, but also moves up and down. In this case, shimming of the crack will not work due to the up and down movement and shear load caused by the movement, thereby rendering the use of an anti-fracture membrane useless. Instead, local removal and replacement of the affected area is the only effective repair method recommended.

Before you make the decision to endure the extortionate costs and seemingly inestimable downtime of removal and replacement, you should have the defective areas evaluated by a competent concrete professional who knows the facts on how to address cracks and how to evaluate the concrete’s condition.

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What Is The Apron Of A Driveway?

Written by Glenda Taylor and published on https://www.bobvila.com/.

A driveway apron connects the driveway to the sidewalk or the main street. A well-constructed driveway apron facilitates a smoother and less stressful transition from the driveway to the street. Most states require the installation of a driveway apron especially if motorized vehicles use the driveway for entering and exiting. Also, many subdivisions require their residents to build driveway aprons to guide stormwater away from their houses and into the drainage system.

All You Need to Know About the Driveway Apron

Learn the facts about replacing the approach to your driveway so you can conform to community regulations while getting the great-looking curb your home deserves.

Most folks don’t give their home’s driveway apron a second thought unless they’re installing a new driveway or repairing an existing one. The apron, also known as the approach, is the part of the driveway closest to the road and usually made from the same material as the rest of the driveway. Because driveway aprons are regulated by building codes in most communities, replacing yours—because it’s in bad shape or you’d like to widen the driveway—can be complicated. Keep reading for crucial info before you tackle this curbside project.

Sizing Up Driveway Apron Sizes

Driveway aprons vary in length from about eight to 15 feet (starting at the street and measuring toward the house). Since the apron is a part of the driveway, its width (side to side) is identical to the width of the rest of the driveway—most of the time you can’t tell where the apron starts and the driveway stops. If sidewalks are present, the apron typically extends to the edge of the sidewalk closest to the house. In many communities, the area on the street side of a sidewalk is considered an easement that the city controls. This is the area where you’ll find buried municipal water lines and storm drains. If no sidewalks are present, the length of the apron will vary from community to community, based on local construction codes.

Understanding Building Codes

Local building codes determine what type of driveway apron can be installed. In most communities, sidewalks, curbs, gutters, and driveway aprons are all regulated by local codes. These areas are considered either public access (sidewalks and aprons) or a part of the community’s storm drainage system (curbs and gutters). When you apply for a permit to construct a new driveway apron, your local codes may regulate the following:

• Who can legally install the apron (a homeowner, a licensed contractor, or a city crew).
• The width and length of the apron.
• The slope of the apron (water must drain into the gutter).
• Acceptable material—concrete is the most common, followed by asphalt, and then pavers.
• The thickness of the apron. For example, concrete on the non-apron portion of the driveway should be a minimum of four inches thick, while codes may require the apron portion to be as much as seven inches thick.
• How much and what type of fill—the sand or gravel—must be used to fill the excavated area before the concrete is poured (usually between three and five inches)
• Whether steel reinforcement (often rebar) must be installed in the concrete as it’s poured.
• Permitted type of curb cuts (see below for curb cut specifics).

In older neighborhoods where driveway aprons do not comply with current local codes, homeowners are often grandfathered-in, meaning they needn’t replace the non-compliant apron. If, however, they decide to replace it, at that point they must install the new one according to code. Failure to do so can result in a fine and having to tear out and replace the apron. Worst case scenario, the city may tear out and replace your non-compliant driveway apron and then bill you for it.

Considering the Curb Cut

A curb cut is where the existing curb is cut away to allow vehicles to enter the driveway. While communities are picky about driveway aprons, they’re even pickier about curb cuts because a system of curbs and gutters is a part of a larger drainage system. If you want to install a brand new driveway, not only will you need to follow codes for installing the apron, you’ll also need to follow codes for cutting the curb. The larger the community, the more curb cut regulations you’re likely to encounter. In New York City, for example, curb cuts are strictly regulated based on numerous criteria, including where they can be located along the curb, the minimum distance to a cross street, how many curb cuts are allowed per block, and even whether a curb cut could interfere with pedestrian traffic. In a small rural community, you may be able to install a new driveway apron and cut the curb without ever having to pull a permit.

Who Pays?

Some communities will pay a portion of driveway apron installation costs while others require the homeowner to pay the entire amount. Homeowners may be surprised to find they don’t own the apron portion of their driveway yet are responsible for maintaining it. If your driveway apron is in bad shape (presenting a danger to pedestrians), the local Code Compliance officer may ask you to have it repaired, which may include patching it (to the city’s standards) or replacing it. If you don’t, the city could fix it and then charge you for the repairs. In winter, the homeowner may also be responsible for removing snow from both the sidewalk and the driveway apron. Check with the local building authority to find out how your community handles these issues.

Evaluating Materials and Costs

Some communities specify the material used in a driveway apron, and this information is available from your local building authority. The cost to build the apron varies, depending on the going rate of labor in your area and whether you can do the work yourself.

• Asphalt, which must be installed by a paving company, runs approximately $3 to $6 per square foot. The company may also charge a setup fee, which could add another $1,000.
• Expect to pay $3 to $10 per square foot for materials if you want to install a paver or cobblestone apron. For professional installation, add another $10 to $18 per square foot.
• For a poured concrete apron, expect to pay $3 to $10 per square foot, which includes fill sand, steel reinforcement, and concrete delivered by truck (sack-type concrete is not suitable for this project). Professional installation will add another $8 to $12 per square foot.
• Equipment rental for excavating, tamping, mortar mixing (for pavers), and concrete finishing tools will add another $350 to $1,500 to a DIY project.

DIY Installation Tips

In the majority of cases, it’s best to leave driveway apron construction to the pros, but if you live in a community that permits homeowner construction, the following tips will help you get off on the right foot. Whether you’re doing a poured concrete or paver driveway, you should have a working knowledge of the material you’re installing.

• Obtain a spec sheet from your local building authority when you apply for your permit and follow it exactly. The spec sheet will give you the allowable dimensions for your apron in addition to its required thickness, the amount of fill and reinforcement, and the type(s) of material you can use.
• Start with a sound base. Whether you’re installing pavers or poured concrete, you’ll need to excavate to a depth of nine to 12 inches, fill the bottom with sand, and then compact the sand with a tamping machine. Sand that isn’t compacted adequately can settle later, resulting in a cracked apron.
• If you’re pouring concrete, consider pouring the apron in sections no larger than eight-foot by eight-foot instead of all at once. Pouring concrete is physically demanding and smaller sections are easier to pour.
• Recruit plenty of helpers when pouring concrete. On a hot dry day, concrete can begin to harden in 15 to 20 minutes, and strong backs are required to spread the semi-solid concrete mix and smooth it out before it sets.
• If you’re laying cobblestones or pavers, the process will go quicker if you have one or two helpers who can bring the pavers to you as you lay them.

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What Is The Best Thickness For A Concrete Driveway?

Written by Rocky Degrenia and published on https://realtytimes.com/.

Ensuring an even thickness across your concrete is the key to preventing cracks over time. Before starting your driveway project, your contractor will likely ask you a few questions to determine the necessary thickness of the concrete. To calculate this, it will be important for the contractor to note the number of vehicles you expect to have on your driveway, and whether or not you plan on parking heavier, industrial vehicles like RVs on it.

How Thick Should Driveway Pavers Be?

Using pavers instead of conventional cement to construct your driveway is quite uncommon.  It is understandable if you have certain questions about what paver thickness would be considered appropriate. So, how thick should driveway pavers be?

How Thick Should Driveway Pavers Be?

On average, pavers should be about 2 3/8 inches or 60.3 mm thick. Depending on which materials you are laying the pavers on, the thickness could vary slightly, but ultimately they should be around the 2 inch to 3 inch range.

What are Pavers?

Pavers are paving stones, tiles, bricks, and concrete tiles used for by builders for exterior flooring. You can add pavers in your backyard, driveway, or even as a pool landscaping idea for small or large yards. When applied accurately, they can be extremely durable and stylish. Pavers can come in all shapes and sizes, and they have been used as flooring materials for thousands of years.

Installing pavers by yourself can be more trouble than it’s sometimes worth. Questions like how thick should driveway pavers be, and how thick of a base do I need? can have the most experienced homemakers puzzled. Pavers can also get loosened easily if they are not installed properly, but can be fixed easily with a couple of instructions. Luckily, we have provided some answers, and we hope they are not as confusing or as complicated as you thought.

Thin Paver vs. Thick Pavers

Whether it be in your driveway or your garden, pavers were designed to be used to bear heavyweight. Thick pavers tend to be stronger, and they often outlast thin pavers. Thick pavers are less likely to crack under intense weight and won’t need to be replaced every few years or so.

A minimum of 2 inches is recommended for basically any paving work. Anything thinner will crack under intense load and give room for weeds to sprout.

How Thick Should a Paver Base Be?

The typical paver base should be around 4-6 inches thick. It should consist of a layer of crushed concrete mixed with a soil base. The paver base is arguably as important as the pavers themselves. Without a strong crushed concrete base, pavers won’t properly lock in place and bear load properly.

Do Pavers Make for a Good Driveway?

Yes, they do. Interlocking pavers with a great and solid base will be able to bear heavy weights. Pavers tend to last a couple of decades, at least. Provided everything is in order, pavers should require little to no maintenance. In fact, they are so simple and straightforward to use; anyone can install them. You can also easily remove oil stains from pavers with a few instructions, so it’ll be easy to clean off any car oil that gets onto to.

Is it Cheaper to Lay Concrete or Pavers?

Pavers are often made of solid stone, brick, or concrete. By default, buying and installing them tends to cost more than using concrete for your driveway. Even though they might put an initial strain on your wallet, they tend to be the more pocket-friendly option out of the two in the long run. Concrete driveways will need to be redone every few years or so. Pavers could last you decades before giving you any real problems.

Bottom Line

So, if you’re thinking about adding pavers onto your driveway, it’s important to do your research prior to getting them laid. One of the questions that you should ask is, “How thick should driveway pavers be?” On average, pavers should be about 2 3/8 inches or 60.3 mm thick. Depending on which materials you are laying the pavers on, the thickness could vary slightly, but ultimately they should be around the 2 inch to 3 inch range. You can also always consult a professional that lays pavers on driveways to ensure that you’re getting the right thickness for your home.

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Repair Options for Concrete Driveways

Written by Home Advisor and published on https://www.homeadvisor.com/.

Ideally, a concrete driveway will last the lifetime of your home. But, there are conditions that can shorten its lifespan and result in unsightly cracking, discoloration, settlement or scaling. Durability ranks high among the many reasons to choose concrete as a driveway surfacing material. After years of exposure to the elements, however, as well as to foot and vehicle traffic, your concrete driveway may begin to look worse for all that wear. Rather than rip it all out and start from scratch, it’s far easier and much cheaper to renew the existing installation. Concrete professionals will protect against future damage and discoloration while making your old driveway look new again. If you think your concrete driveway has reached the end of the road, read on and learn how easy it can be to give it a second life.

Concrete Resurfacing – Process & Options

Many homes built in the last half-century feature concrete driveways, concrete walkways, or both. Concrete is the material of choice for these outdoor jobs because it’s sturdy and lasts a long time. But what do you do when your concrete driveway or walkway begins to show the signs of aging? Cracks will appear, weeds may begin to sprout, and suddenly you’re looking at an eyesore. Aging concrete is an all too common source of headaches for homeowners and home exteriors. If it has to be torn out and new concrete poured, it can be painfully expensive to fix. The good news is that it’s not always necessary. Concrete resurfacing is a way of giving your concrete walkways and driveway new life:

The Process of Concrete Resurfacing

Concrete resurfacing is a process by which concrete is cleaned, repaired, and overlaid with a new surface. Here is an overview of the steps involved for this fix to aging concrete:

• Cleaning. The old surface is washed with a power washer to get rid of dirt and grime.
• Repairing the Cracks. Cracks are primed, reinforced with fabric, then covered with a polymer concrete that is smoothed out evenly with the rest of the concrete driveway.
• Repairing the Holes. Holes are filled in with an epoxy mortar.
• Covering the Surface. Once all the repairs are made, the surface is primed, then covered with a spray-on polymer concrete, which is then finished with a trowel.
• Coloring and Sealing. Decorative coloring is then applied, if you want it, and a seal coat that will protect the new surface from the elements.
• Curing. Then, you wait. Plan on not using your concrete driveway for 48-72 hours while the surface dries completely.

As extensive as this may sound, it is still quicker and more economical than pouring concrete for a whole new surface.

Options for Aging Concrete

Of course, aging concrete starts as a basic repair job, but resurfacing creates a whole host of secondary options for increased visual appeal. Indeed, many homeowners find they can only justify the cost because intensive concrete resurfacing, while expensive, can also return concrete to “like-new” status. Concrete staining, perhaps the most common task associated with resurfacing, is capable of creating vibrant colors and wide-ranging effects such as distressed leather, wood, natural stone, or colorful murals. More than staining, ask your concrete contractor about the potential for these aging concrete options:

• Overlays, such as flagstone, brick or stone patterns,
• Sawcut patterns, either symmetrical or random,
• Stamping or Etching, in which a pattern is carved into the surface to give the look of stone or brick at a fraction of the cost, and
• Exposed Aggregate Finishes, in which small stones are embedded in the surface to give a rough texture to the surface of your concrete driveway or walkway, making for a more slip-free surface.

With so many possibilities, concrete resurfacing seems to be the best option out there for revitalizing worn-out concrete. However, do note that if your concrete driveway has major damage from freezing or thawing, is heaving, or has underlying soil problems, you may end up tearing up the new surface and pouring concrete all over again, essentially replace your entire driveway. So it’s best to check with the concrete pros to see if this option is right for you.

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What Is The Cheapest Type of Driveway?

Written by Jennifer Blair and published on https://www.hunker.com/.

Installing a new driveway is not cheap, with poured concrete costing at $6 to $10 per square foot, on average, and considerably more if there is demolition of the old concrete slab involved, or if you want the driveway stamped or stained for a decorative effect. Stone paver driveways are even more expensive, with costs ranging from $10 to as high as $50 per square foot, depending on the type of paver used, the cost of local labor, and the circumstances of the building site.

But there are low-cost options to consider when planning a new or replacement driveway. One of the best ways to save money is to use loose materials such as gravel, stone, or tar-and-chip (macadam) for your driveway surface.

Cheap Ways to Pave a Driveway

A driveway doesn’t just have to be a place to park your car. Depending on the materials that you use to pave it, it can help give your landscape a more decorative look as well. But if you have a large driveway, paving the area can be quite costly. If you’re on a budget, some paving materials are more affordable than others. You should also keep maintenance and durability in mind, however, when deciding how to finish your driveway because a larger initial investment may actually save you money in the long run.

Rustic Gravel

Gravel is one of the most inexpensive paving options for a driveway. It provides a rustic look that works well with cottage-style homes, and it can be installed relatively quickly. A gravel driveway requires careful installation and long-term maintenance, however. The driveway area must be excavated approximately 1-foot down, and the subgrade should be compacted to form a solid base. Landscaping mesh should also be laid over the area to prevent weeds from growing up through the gravel. You’ll need to install a base material, such as crushed stone, and edging to help keep the gravel in place. The materials that you use for the base and edging will affect the total cost of your driveway, though. For example, plastic or wooden edging is fairly inexpensive but isn’t very durable. Paver or stone edging is highly durable but more costly as well.

Durable Apshalt

Asphalt is usually quite affordable. As with gravel, your driveway area must be excavated and graded prior to installation. A base material like recycled concrete and asphalt is laid over the area before the hot asphalt is poured and compacted with a heavy-duty roller. While it is extremely durable and strong, however, asphalt is not always the most aesthetically pleasing driveway paving option because it is usually a solid black color. You can have it stamped and colored, but that will drive up the cost of your driveway. Though asphalt driveways last for many years, they should be resealed every two to five years to keep them from breaking down.

Elegant Tar and Chip

A tar and chip driveway is an affordable driveway paving option that often has a more decorative appearance than plain asphalt. After your driveway area is excavated and graded, a gravel base is laid and hot liquid asphalt cement is poured over it. A layer or two of crushed stone is then spread on top of it and pushed down into the asphalt. The overall cost of the driveway depends on what type of stone you choose to add to the asphalt, but the finished product has an elegant appearance and is just as durable as plain asphalt. The rougher surface of the driveway also provides better traction in inclement weather. A tar and chip driveway can usually go as long as 10 years without needing to be resurfaced.

Low-Maintenance Concrete

Concrete is often used as a paving material for driveways because it’s budget-friendly and doesn’t require as much maintenance as other materials. As with any paving material, your driveway area must be properly excavated and compacted prior to installation to ensure that there is proper support for the concrete and that the slab has a uniform thickness throughout the driveway. If the soil beneath your driveway is soft, it’s a good idea to create a base of gravel or crushed rock so the driveway has a solid foundation. Steel reinforcement such as wire mesh or steel rebar can help strengthen the driveway if it will see heavy traffic. The concrete is then poured over the area and given a simple broom finish. You can have your concrete driveway stamped or colored for a more decorative appearance, but it will raise the cost of the finished product.

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How to Necessary Is Rebar For Concrete Driveway?

Written by Doityourself Staff and published on https://www.doityourself.com/.

Not all surfaces need concrete rebar reinforcement, but adding it makes concrete stronger and more resistant to large cracks. Concrete surfaces expected to carry heavy trucks or machinery do need concrete rebar reinforcement. Rebar reinforcement has been used to provide concrete with the support necessary to withstand tension forces for over 150 years. Concrete is incredibly strong in terms of compression but it doesn’t have much tension strength. That’s where concrete rebar reinforcement comes in handy. Without rebar reinforcement, concrete is highly prone to cracks due to tension forces. Rebar helps prevent cracks from growing wider largely by preventing cracked slabs from moving apart.

How to Use a Rebar to Repair a Concrete Patio

Cracks in the concrete patio are a common maintenance issue among households with concrete driveways and sidewalks. To solve this problem, use of reinforced concrete is recommended. In this method, a steel bar is inserted into the concrete mix. This bar or the rebar, binds with the concrete through a chemical bonding process that cannot be broken by daily wear and tear or the stress such induced by passage of vehicles. As a result, concrete reinforced with steel bar raises the overall durability of the concrete surface. The reinforcing bars also prevent concrete corrosion. Corrosion occurs due to seepage of moisture and chemical vapors within the pores of the concrete. The cement mix in contact with the rebar forms an insulating layer, neutralizing any form of chemical reaction that can cause corrosion.

Understanding the Problem

However, the installation of rebar within the concrete mix is a slightly complicated process. If not done properly, the rebar begins to poke through the concrete patio within days of the concrete mix drying-up. Often, elongated sections of the rebar start jutting through the cracked, patio surface. This is a major safety hazard and requires extensive repairing of the patio. However, this problem can be easily prevented if you understand the common reasons that cause displacement of the rebar.

Reason 1 – Improper Use of Water & Plasticizers

The amount of water used in concrete-work affects the inherent strength of the prepared patio, its drying-up duration and chances of the rebar poking through the prepared surface. You should ensure that the conventional water-cement ratio is always maintained. The minimum water measurement is about 25% of the concrete. If you plan to use more water than this, ensure that it is specifically done to hydrate a concrete mix that has specific ingredients that need excessive hydration.

An over-hydrated concrete mix is difficult-to-handle and the resultant concrete flow is misguiding. Such a mix occupies more area when pouring the concrete but later contracts, often exposing the rebar. An under-hydrated concrete mix, doesn’t allow proper bonding between the rebar and the cement’s ingredients. This causes gradual shifting of the loosely-installed rebar. The rebar is gradually pushed towards a side of the patio and it eventually pokes through one of the patio’s corners.

Contemporary concrete mixes are strengthened with synthetic additives called plasticizers. They lend structural strength to the concrete and increase its overall workability by making the concrete flow, uniform. However, excessive use of a plasticizer can cause concrete congestion around the rebar. This is because presence of more plasticizer causes hard-to-detect, piling-up of concrete in small pockets around the rebar. When exposed to overlying stress induced by movement of vehicles, these inbuilt lumps disrupt, weakening the concrete-rebar bond. This dislodges the rebar from its original location, pushing it towards the upper surface of the patio.

Reason 2 – Inappropriate Rebar Calculations/Measurements

Excessive or deficient use of the re-enforcing bar is a major cause of that causes the rebar to poke through concrete patios. You should know the basic about the amount of rebar that is needed to re-enforce the concrete patio. Remember that ratio between the rebar and concrete is always tilted towards the concrete — the rebar is a small fraction of the concrete-mix. Most household beams need only 1% of rebar. Commonly, rebar percentage doesn’t cross the 8%-mark for any type of household construction. It is advised that you consult someone who has expertise in this field to help you calculate the appropriate rebar percentage for your patio. This includes approximating the amount of daily footing and vehicular traffic the concrete surface would be exposed to and the local, climatic conditions.

Using an under-weight rebar can cause cracking of rebar and push small segments of it towards the patio’s upper surface. You should have a basic idea about the suitable rebar size considerations. At the time of purchasing the rebar, ask the retailer about the rebar number — commonly denoted in a series like #3, #4. Enquire about the ideal size of the patio for which each of these numbered rebars are suited. Usually, each reinforcing bar has many markings on it that can be understood as a coded form of information about its intended usage and dimensions. Inform the reinforcing-bar retailer about your patio requirements and request him to match these with this crucial bit of marked information.

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How To Make A Concrete Driveway Look Better?

Written by Michele Norfleet and published on https://homeguides.sfgate.com/.

In the past, when a concrete patio or driveway started to show serious signs of aging, using a jackhammer or bringing in a bulldozer were the only repair options. Today there are more practical alternatives. You put a lot of work into making your home look its best, but how is your driveway looking these days? Gray, flat, and boring? Maybe cracked and crumbling or even overgrown with weeds? You may think it’s just a driveway, but it’s an important feature of your property and there’s no reason why it can’t look good too. Whether you want your driveway to blend in with the unique character of your house or stand out as something to be proud of, here are six ideas worth considering to make your ugly driveway look amazing!

How to Improve an Ugly Concrete Driveway

When your concrete driveway has seen better days or if you are just tired of the drab gray surface, take heart. You have several options to choose from to give your old, ugly driveway a facelift. Most processes are applied to driveways that are in good condition. If yours has deteriorated, however, you can still improve the appearance by removing the old driveway and replacing it with a more appealing surface.

Staining

Concrete driveways that are in good condition — free of cracks, oil, grime or other coatings — are suitable for a process known as concrete staining. The stain, unlike paint, permeates the concrete, giving your driveway a rich, translucent color resulting in a mottled or variegated appearance. If you choose acid stains, you are limited to earth tones, but water-based stains are available in a wide range of color options. Special effects are possible to create the look of natural stone, marble and even wood.

Stamping

Concrete stamping is an option for creating a natural stone appearance on your driveway. Depending on the color or pattern you choose, you can have the look of slate, flagstone, cobblestone, tile or brick without the high cost associated with those natural products. Stamped concrete is a low-maintenance option that, when properly installed, will last for decades. Although concrete stamping is often applied to new concrete driveways, stamped overlays are used to enhance existing concrete that is in good condition.

Etching

You can create a one-of-a-kind driveway with a technique known as etching. Patterns and designs are etched into your existing driveway with special tools to create a permanent design. The choice of designs includes stone patterns, special logos and graphics. The patterns are further enhanced by staining. Etching is suitable for any style home by choosing a design that harmonizes with the colors and design of your residence.

Pavers

If your concrete driveway is beyond hope, you may consider removing it and starting over with a new surface that you can stamp or stain. But you can also replace your existing driveway with pavers. Paving stones are available in a variety of textures and colors and are installed over a prepared sub-base. The pavers are interlocking and form a patterned surface. Although pavers are more expensive than resurfacing procedures, they are durable and can be driven on immediately after installation. If pavers are damaged, it is possible to remove and replace individual pavers.

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Most of the time, however, you can expect the new surface to be ready for foot traffic in about six hours. And in 24 hours, you can pull your car in and park in the driveway again—that very same driveway that was tired- and worn-looking yesterday but, thanks to Concreting Canberra, appears brand-new today.

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Ways To Improve Your Patio

Written by Falon Mihalic and published on https://www.houzz.com/.

A patio is an essential element in today’s backyards. Concrete is the most popular patio material in the country. With many decorative finishes, concrete patios attract homeowners who want an outdoor surface with unlimited design potential. When compared to wood decks, pavers and natural stone, a concrete patio is also more durable and requires less maintenance.

5 Ways to Get a More Beautiful Concrete Patio

Concrete is a standard paving material for many home patios, but that doesn’t mean concrete patios have to be boring. In fact, rethinking what the surface is like and how the space is framed, and making some simple additions, can help revive a patio and create a more interesting outdoor living space. Here are some design ideas for using what you already have as a great starting point.

Removing concrete can be expensive, because it has to be broken up (labor cost) and then hauled away (disposal fee). Instead of starting entirely from scratch, try to work with what you’ve got on hand to change how your concrete patio looks.

If your patio simply can’t be refurbished because it is severely cracked or is not sloped well for drainage, work with a professional near you to remove and replace it with something that best suits your home and lifestyle.

1. Refinish the Surface

Concrete specialists can refinish your concrete through staining, scoring and additional paving. Theses surface treatments are for concrete that has already been fully cured.

• Stain. Stains for concrete work by breaking into the surface of the paving and altering the color, texture or both. Essentially, they weaken the surface and require a sealant over the stain so that the paving doesn’t degrade.
• Scoring pattern. Scoring patterns are made simply by cutting into the concrete about ¼ inch. The cuts make a pattern across the paving that give the field of concrete a visual rhythm. Popular scoring patterns include grids, diamonds and repeating lines.
• Paving veneer. It is possible to add pavers over your existing concrete, so long as the finished height of the paving does not pose any hazards with drainage or walking. The construction detail uses the concrete as a foundation, and the pavers are mortared to the concrete base. Pay attention to how the paving’s added thickness affects the edges of your patio so that all of your stairs and walkways match up at the proper height.

A safety note about finishes: When choosing a stain or sealant, you want to maintain a nonslip surface outdoors. Therefore, most interior concrete finishes are not suitable for a landscape patio, because they become too slippery after a rain.

2. Add Walls

Creating a low wall around a patio changes the space into its own contained outdoor room. It’s a different feeling from a wide-open patio. In the space seen here, the patio feels more like a lookout to the lower terrain in the background. The wall, which looks to be a veneer over concrete, acts as an intermediate visual frame between the private patio space and the exposed landscape beyond.

Don’t want to commit to adding a wall? Try a planting a trellis with vines or adding an outdoor screen to create a sense of enclosure and privacy.

3. Change the Light

This patio is framed by a stunning house and a gorgeous landscape, but look at how the concrete patio comes to life as dappled shade dances on the surface.

Think about how you can change the natural light, or add downcast outdoor lights to give your patio a different character at night. Create shade to make a patio that’s blinded by full sun feel more inviting. Brighten a dark, gloomy patio by bringing in more natural light or adding low-glow lights for nighttime.

4. Frame it With a Pergola

Similar to changing the space with a wall, a pergola or another overhead structure can help to enclose the space. People enjoy being in nooks that feel cozy and private.

Look at your patio and see how it can be framed overhead. This will also work to your advantage in changing the natural light. An overhead trellis creates its own pattern of light and offers the opportunity to support flowering vines, lights, a ceiling fan, speakers for music and more.

5. Change the Edge

The edge of this precast concrete paver patio has been cut to be curvy. Concrete that’s in good shape and has no major cracks can be cut with a circular saw to change the edge. This means that you would have just a portion of it removed to create a different geometry. A changed edge, combined with a new type of planting, like added flower beds or new trees, will make the concrete patio feel like a new space.

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